Sunday, 24 May 2015

The last few days in Rishikesh

Wednesday 13th May 2015

This morning all I wanted to do was upload some photos and get a blog post sorted but as usual the internet let me down I eventually got it down after about four hours and I was ready to pitch a fit.

We headed back to the guesthouse to drop off the laptop and get some shoes to go adventuring to a waterfall but along the way the sky clouded over and by the time we got back it was pouring with rain and the thunder and lightning was echoing all around.

We ended up spending most of the afternoon reading, drawing and napping before heading out to dinner (as soon as we left the rain started again!) we sat in a restaurant all evening eating all the food and waiting for the rain to stop.

Thursday 14th May 2015

After eating so much last night I wasn’t interested in breakfast so I stayed at the guesthouse and tidied up our stuff somewhat.

When Mark came back we went off on a mission to find the waterfall there were two to choose from and we decided on the one less visited and that was free. We walked for about 30minutes up the hill behind the guesthouse asking people as we went if we were going the right way we got to a small temple where two young guys were sitting and asked them if we were going the right way and they were adamant there was no waterfall the way we were going.

As they were locals we decided to trust their judgment and go the waterfall we had to pay to see we figured it would be easier to find. We sat by the temple having a rest and I got stung by a tiny wasp which wasn’t very happy making.

We walked all the way back down and started off towards the other waterfall unfortunately the walk was along the road which was extremely busy with cars buses and trucks constantly hurtling past. The noise combined with the fierce heat of the sun soon made us turnaround. We weren’t even sure if we were going the right way so we decide to just go to the beach instead.

We went back past the guesthouse so I could change back into jandals and then headed for some lunch before hitting the beach. We went to eat at an apparently famous restaurant called Chotiwala outside of which sits a fat man painted pink with his hair sticking straight up from his head in a single braid. The food was ok but nothing to write home about.


Crazy Chotiwala man


We headed to the each and found a big rock to sit on not long after we arrived a big dog came and sat by us he seemed friendly enough so we let him be. We were just about to leave when three young guys came up wanting a photo with us I said no but the guy kept asking and wouldn’t leave which was when the dog lost his shit growling and barking at the guys. They kept asking me to call off my dog but I couldn’t get him to calm down and in the end he chased the three guys right off the beach.

There was an old dog feeding biscuits to some female dogs who was convinced that the dog had protected us from some bad boys it was certainly one way to get out of having our picture taken!

The dog then came back to us and walked with us for a while until he wondered into some other dogs patch and they chased him back the way we came.

On the way back to the guesthouse we stopped for a coffee then went back for showers and then thalis for dinner.

Friday 15th May 2015

We went to breakfast across the bridge this morning, they forgot our order and so the meal went on for an age. Of course after eating we had to get coffee so that slowed down the process as well.

After food we went to the beach between the two bridges there was a couple of tourists dressed only in tiny swimsuits doing yoga on the beach and were being circled by a large amount of young Indian guys much to our amusement. As for them they seemed completely oblivious to the spectacle they were causing which made it even funnier.

We spent a while at the beach Mark had his shirt wrapped on his head like a turban as he got sunburnt yesterday which was amusing.



At 3pm we went to meet Verity for a late lunch we didn’t actually know where she meant so it was lucky we had WhatsApp as we were on the wrong side of the river. We crossed over and soon found the place she meant.

We ate and caught up on life then took a walk along the river we passed a burning ghat which had several funeral pyres in full swing but no one around which was rather eerie.

We walked all the way down past people swimming and bathing (not something I would do down river to a burning corpse but who am I to question it) we headed for Deyanandas Ashram where we had a poke around in the bookshop before heading back the way we came.

Along the way we picked up a lively dog who didn’t want to leave us and only did when she was chased off by a pack of dogs.

We said our goodbyes along the road and continued on back up the hill to our guesthouse where we chilled out for a bit and had showers before heading to a café for a chilled evening.

Today the dogs seemed to be in a very weird mood there was the one that followed us by the river then when we went to the guesthouse there was a pack of them howling and running about, when we went for dinner three dogs went speeding down the road past us and we came across another pack of dogs in a fight with a cow, then on the way home they were all tearing about in groups howling and chasing each other and barking at cars and people it was all very strange.

Saturday 16th May 2015

This morning was much the same as most mornings we slept late and then did some laundry before getting on with the day. Although we didn’t do much with it. We were too late for breakfast so had lunch and then headed to a café so Mark could abuse the Wi-Fi by skyping everyone he knew.

We spent a long time in there drinking tea and eventually getting pancakes after watching other people enjoying them. That was about all we did we went back to the guesthouse and only left again to eat again after which we headed home again where I started feeling ill and it all went downhill.

Sunday 17th May 2015

After being up most of the night ill I woke up not really wanting to do a lot we were supposed to leave tomorrow but we decided to push it back a day rather than risk being stuck on a bus for 10 hours with no bathroom.

I spent the morning in bed while Mark went and had breakfast and by around midday I was starting to feel a bit better we went out to meet Verity for lunch trying out a place a few people had told us about which was loungy and chilled out.

We decided it would be nice to go and hang out by the river and cool down so we took verity to the beach we frequent its normally lovely and quiet and relaxed down there but today there was a group of horrible drunk young Indian guys.

We swam (fully clothed) and then chilled out talking while they sat and stared at us and we ignored them after some time one guy approached and started talking to Mark his English was terrible and he was annoying and rude so we asked him to leave but he persisted and it soon became clear that he was trying to buy us from Mark, the final straw being when he asked Mark to leave so they could have us.

We were meeting up with Verity’s boyfriend anyway so decided to just leave them to the beach only they also left and followed us down the road we kept stopping so they could walk on ahead but then they would stop and try to talk to us, obviously determined to buy us. As was inevitable it had to pretty much come to blows before they disappeared. Bizarrely they chickened out and left after Mark pushed one of them despite the fact that there was one of Mark and five of them.

We got back into town and met up with Vimal we were still full from lunch so we headed to a café and got a drink and hung out for a while until Mark decided he was starving and we headed off to get some food. Mark ended up eating most of mine since I wasn’t really hungry at all.

We all walked back up to the main road together where Verity and Vimal got an auto back down to Ram Jhula and Mark and I headed further up the hill to our guesthouse and bed. Despite only being about 9.30pm I was shattered after my lack of sleep last night and went straight to bed.

Monday 18th May 2015

Today was a bit more productive than normal we started off with an idly at a dharba before heading across Lakshman Jhula to enquire about having an astrology horoscope done. We made an appointment and then stopped off at Marks favourite café so he could drink all the coffee.

Feeling energised we walked back to the guesthouse so Mark could put shoes on since his jandals were hurting his little tosies. We then struggled to get a shared auto down to Rishikesh town everyone wanted to rip us off or claimed that we couldn’t go to the market because of the traffic. 

After negotiating with three separate drivers agreeing on a price and then being told they can’t take us eventually we were on the mover in a rickshaw so overstuffed that I had to sit on the floor, it was so hot that the metal was burning me through my pants and on several occasions I feared I was going to fall out of the open door.

In the end we got where we needed to be and got out of the rickshaw right by a store called “phone zone” which was exactly what we wanted since we were in town to buy me a phone (not that I’m going to use it until I return to normal life but since phones in India are incredibly cheap and Mark is a geek who loves geeky things like finding me an awesome Indian phone it seemed like a great idea.)

After shopping about a bit we walked out of the shop with me the proud owner of a phone that’s going to sit in the bottom of my bag for the next few months. We were feeling a bit hungry so went to a local restaurant that had been recommended to us, the place was rammed and rightly so since the food was incredible we walked out feeling stuffed and got an auto back up to Ram Jhula this time no haggling was required as the man started off with the fair price for once.

We got out of the rickshaw and crossed over the bridge which took an age since it was full of waddling fat old pilgrims constantly stopping to take endless selfies. We grabbed some water and then headed to the beach for a final paddle and a sit by the water people watching.

When it came time we headed back towards Lakshman Jhula t the Astrology centre. We were a bit early but went in anyway here had been a bit of a muddle with our appointment and the Dr was in the middle of teaching some students so we were kind of interrupting but it was probably beneficial for them as they got to listen in our readings.

The future seems pretty positive and the reading has made a few things clearer but as usual I found it hard to ask any questions when there were so many people listening in, thankfully he gave us his card and told us to email him with any questions we might have. The world is a technological place!

We had about an hour before we were meeting Verity for dinner so we chilled out in a café overlooking the water where as soon as it got dark I was attacked by mosquitos. We had a cup of tea and Mark set up my new phone before Verity arrived and we headed to a cheap dharba for food.

After such an amazing lunch I wasn’t feeling too hungry so we shared a dosa and sat and chatted for a long while. Just after 9pm we had to head off to make sure Verity got back to the Ashram before the gate was locked at 10pm. We said our goodbyes and headed home to pack up our things in preparation of leaving tomorrow.

Tuesday 19th May 2015

We decided to head to Shimla today we had no idea what time the bus was only that it would take us about ten hours from Dehra Dun which is about an hour from Rishikesh. We had a slow morning packing up and having breakfast and then got a rickshaw down to the Rishikesh bus stand it took us an age as the drivers refused to give us a fair price in the end we managed to get something a bit cheaper at 150 rupees but still clearly unfair as was evident when the driver picked up an Indian tourist at Ram Jhula (about 5mins from where we stated out) and took him for a mere 30 rupees.


Mark trying to straighten the poles from my pack after they got bent falling off a cliff in the bike accident.


At the bus station we got on the first bus to Dehra Dun that appeared but it was a bit of a fail as it went around about way and didn’t go to the bus station we needed to be at we had to get a rickshaw there and when we arrived it was in the middle of nowhere. We went to the info counter and asked what time the bus was it turned out that there was one at 6pm that arrived at about 3am or one at midnight that arrived at 8am. We decided to take the midnight one which left us waiting at a bus station in the middle of nowhere for ten hours.

Luckily there was a restaurant that didn’t seem to mind us sitting there for the entire day we killed time by reading, colouring in and eventually watching some TV on the laptop. We had lunch and later on dinner sitting there only moving when the restaurant closed.


Deformed water bottle


Colouring in like a boss


We moved to the platform and sat amongst our bags drawing all sorts of attention the most disturbing being a man that appeared in front of me between two buses wanking. At first glance I thought he was having a wee but no he was full on wanking. Mark had gone off to ask something about the bus but as soon as I saw him walking back I yelled out to him that there was a man wanking and pointed at him as soon as I did he ran off and no one bothered to chase him although after that security came out in force.

The bus arrived late and when it did come it was a scramble for everyone to get on. We pushed our way on and shoved our bags onto a seat and sat next to them looking forward to ten hours on a shitty local bus with no leg space and hard straight back chairs.

I put my headphones in and blacked out the world.


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