Wednesday, 13 May 2015

Still in Rishikesh


Thursday 7th May 2015

Today was an extremely lazy day we had breakfast after which we stopped in a café for a coffee and sat and read for a bit before heading back to the guesthouse where we lay on the roof reading for a few hours it wasn’t long before Mark was hungry though so we went in search of a late lunch and ended up at a bit of a shithole. We ate and then headed back to the guesthouse to have a shower before heading out to meet friends.

In the evening we met Sandeep on some steps by the river we chilled out there for a bit before heading into the Royal café to watch this girl that we met recite some poetry.

We could have walked all the way up to the street and around to the café but in true Indian style someone had leant a dodgy looking ladder against a shoddily made wall on the balcony and so we climbed up that straight into the café. As I went up the ladder the whole thing was swaying and I kept picturing the wall it was leaning on crumbling but we all got up safely so it was fine.

We were a bit early so we had dinner sitting outside on the balcony watching the sun go down. When we had eaten we moved inside to watch the performance. It was all pretty deep stuff and the girl had a very real talent as well as a great report with the audience.

Alter the show ended we said our goodbyes and headed down the road to a café for some cake. We sat down the back on the balcony where we were quickly forgotten about and Sandeep had to remind them about our order it turned out they were short staffed and in the end Sandeep was the one who got our cake for us!

Around 10pm we decided to head back and brave the dogs barking and chasing us. We actually made it back without incident which was a relief and were soon ready for bed.

Friday 8th May 2015

This morning we got up and had breakfast then went shopping for a few bits a pieces that we needed while we were at the shops we ended up buying a colouring in book and some coloured pencils I wanted the Ganesh or the Mandala book but Mark wanted Tantra (he didn’t realise it was a sex book which made it funnier when we got back and opened it up)

I also got some postcards and so we went into a café and I wrote my postcards while Mark drank endless cups of coffee. When we were leaving I asked for a muesli cookie and the girl gave me a peanut one it was severely disappointing. But on the bright side as we were paying be bumped into a friend from Pushkar so happy days on that front!

We found the post office and I sent off my many correspondences and well as a little parcel each (Moo I sent you a package but it’s your birthday present so don’t open it if it comes early!!!) we were just in time as we were leaving they were shutting up shop behind us (even though it was only 2pm…)

With all our jobs done we walked back to the guesthouse to sit on the roof and do some colouring in we soon got rather competitive over whose side of the page was better.



After a while we were melting in the sun even though by this stage it was early evening and the sun was going down so we had a shower and headed out to dinner. We went to the other side of the bridge and after eating sat down by the river in the darkness for a time before coming back and eating way to much chocolate in bed.

 Saturday 9th May 2015

This morning we were up at a reasonable hour for once as we had a cooking class booked. We got up and Mark was starving so we went and had a quick breakfast before being at the place for 10am across the bridge in Lakshman Jhula.

We arrived a bit early but got straight into it. Over the next few hours we made a whole variety of dishes finishing in time to eat at about midday. We learnt how to Make Aloo Paranthas (bread stuffed with potato), chapattis, Coriander chutney, basic yellow dhal and vegetable curry as well as lassi and ginger chai. 

The food was quite spicy and extremely delicious all cooked in a tiny flat above a café while the ladies five year old son played quietly on the bed in the corner. It was great fun and all through the lesson we learnt about Indian spices and what not the teacher is also an ayurvedic cook and so she told us what foods are good for what and what to avoid eating. (Apparently if you eat a green chilli every day you should never wear glasses!)

After the class we were stuffed but Mark wanted a coffee so we walked down the road to a café that has a real coffee machine. The woman that owns the place has a broken foot and everyone who works there seems to be a volunteer the service is ridiculously bad and when  Mark asked for a second coffee they told him to make it himself which was wildly amusing!

We sat and enjoyed the cool of the café as the day was scorching but after a while we needed to move and so we headed to the beach. Along the way we stopped to pat a baby cow when a jeep sped by blaring its horn it scared another cow who head-butted mark who fell down narrowly missing landing in a huge fresh poo it was hilarious and I laughed about it for the rest of the day.


the cow that ran Mark down

We went where we swam the other day but the river had risen and looked completely different the current was much stronger and there wasn’t much of a bank you stepped into the river and it was immediately deep.

We just paddled our toes and sat on the sad watching lizards scurrying about for a while before heading back to the guesthouse. 



I had planned on getting some washing done but instead I ended up siting about reading my book and doing colouring in.

Around 6.30pm we headed out for some food we were both pretty hungry so were upset that none of the dhabas opened until 7pm. Instead we headed across Lakshman Jhula and down to one of the Ghats where there was an event going on to raise money for families in Nepal after the earthquake.

There was street food and performers and a video about the relief effort. We stayed until about 8pm when we decided to head for food (the street food hadn’t satisfied our hunger) when we got to the restaurant there wasn’t anything I felt like eating so I ended up dinnerless while Mark ate a huge thali.

After food we headed back to the guesthouse and read the evening away.

Sunday 10th May 2015

What a lazy day. We didn’t get moving until almost midday and even then it was just to a café for breakfast, books and Wi-Fi for a few hours before getting an ice-cream and heading back to the guesthouse to do laundry.

Just before 4pm we headed out to meet Sandeep at a café for a drink before attending a Shaman workshop. The other day whilst crossing Lakshman Jhula we met some people who told us about the workshop. It was a Mexican Shaman and we had no idea what to expect.

It was actually pretty interesting he talked mostly about nutrition with a huge focus on water and how water these days is so treated it’s not in its pure form which is why there is so much illness in the world. He also talked about how bad diary is but I already knew that. (There was an Indian couple there that left when he said that)

His talk went on for a few hours about awakening your body and connecting to your mind but it was just an intro talk so didn’t go too far in depth to anything.

After the workshop we went to dinner with Sandeep and a German guy who also came to the talk we checked out a place that does Ayurvedic cooking. The food was really simple but really delicious. We sat about all evening chatting and eating before heading home to bed.

Monday 11th May 2015

Last night was hotter than any other night has been so I woke up feeling groggy and not very fresh. We had idly for breakfast and then moved onto a café for coffee.

We chilled out for a bit before walking along the river past Ram Jhula to the Beatles Ashram (of course that’s not really what it’s called but since they stayed there in the 60s it’s what its known as) the ashram was abandoned in 1997 and has been left to fall into ruin ever since no one can tell me why it was abandoned and a google search proved fruitless but its possibly because the guru was a bit shady.

The land is now owned by the forestry commission and the entire site is being reclaimed by nature although a lot of the buildings are still intact.

We didn’t know how to get here and so followed google maps as much as we could but the internet in Rishikesh is a touch bad and so it was a bit hard we ended up walking for quite a while through the forest on a relatively quiet road until we came to a small path there was a baba there who pointed us in the right direction (and told us he would pray for our marriage)

The path was fairly short and before long we were at the back gate of course it was locked (the land as I said before is owned by the forestry commission and no one is actually allowed to go in but some enterprising locals have set up a business letting people in at the front entrance for a small baksheesh)

Luckily for us we are expert climbers and so we just spider-manned over the locked gate as we were considering the best place to climb over another guy showed up and we spent our time exploring with him. The place has a great energy about it but at the same time is very creepy and sad its super overgrown and there are the remnants of fires everywhere as well as a lot of damage to the buildings and heaps of graffiti although most of the graffiti is pretty awesome artwork.

Almost all the windows and toilets have been smashed and all the metal seems to have been pulled out as well as all the plug sockets and any electrical fittings leaving random holes in the walls here and there.

We explored loads of building as well as climbing onto the roof of several which awarded us spectacular views. The place was pretty empty we only saw a few other people poking about and millions of spiders and funnel webs.

After having a good explore we decided to leave through the main gate hoping to blag that we paid on the way in, but the guy wasn’t having any of it and refused to let us out saying we had to go back and climb back over the fence wherever we came. In the end we hopped over the fence right in front of him and cheerily thanked him for all his help.

We walked back into town and stopped for a juice by the bridge where we bumped into Sandeep he was about to leave to catch a train so it was good to say goodbye. We sat and had juice and fruit salad and then walked across Ram Jhula and up the hill back to the guesthouse along the way a dude stepped out in front of me without looking to hail a bus and inadvertently stubbed out his cigarette on my hand, despite the fact that it was blatantly his fault he blamed me for the loss of his smoke and the fact that the bus didn’t stop! I was pleased to get back to the accommodation to chill out and do some colouring in.

We hung out for a while waiting for it to be after 7pm so we could get a thali at one of the dhabas we ate and then headed to a café for some tea and to sit and do colouring in. while we were there a huge storm started and we ended up trapped until the rain eased off which it did eventually.

We had to walk home in near total darkness as the power seemed to be out everywhere occasionally the way was lit up by a flash of lightening but that only served to make me even more blind. We got back to the accommodation where the power was also out leaving us no choice but to go to bed.




On top of one of the many abandoned buildings


Some teachings still on the wall


Standard cleanliness of an Indian toilet haha


Mark nervously watching a creepy grasshopper thing


Some more abandoned buildings


Te Ashram is full of beautiful and not so beautiful graffiti 



The back gate we climbed over


Weird egg topped building


Underground meditation cells


beautiful empty building being reclaimed by the forest




Abandoned House


Overgrown Pagoda


The Ashram even had a postbox


Tuesday 12th May 2015

After the extreme rain last night the weather was much cooler today we went to have breakfast but every place we tried was closed which was annoying we finally ended up in a café across the river which has great coffee but ridiculously bad service.

We had a lazy morning and then went and had a lazy afternoon by the river paddling our feet and doing some yoga on the sand. The beach was pretty much empty except for the rafting boats going by so it was lovely and peaceful.

Eventually though it got a bit too hot and Mark was hungry so we went and got him a thali. Before heading back to the guesthouse to chill out on the roof.

In the evening we had dinner at a dharba and then chilled with books all evening.



This monkey stole someones ice-cream!


Every year people drown in the Ganges on Sunday an Indian tourist drowned whilst swimming her body is yet to be recovered 


So many cows in the streets here


Yoga by the Ganges









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