Thursday 26th February 2015
It was a relief to wake up feeling better this morning. We
got up early as we were taking a drive out to the national park that’s close by
but by the time we actually got moving and had breakfast it was 10am.
The drive took a little over an hour and once inside the
park we headed for the lake only to discover that it no longer exists and
clearly hasn’t for quite some time as there are now houses built there. The
drive was still pretty fun (apart from one horrible section of unsealed road
that went on for about 5km of bumpy hell)
We attempted to have a motorbike riding lesson but as usual
two guys on a bike appeared from nowhere and wouldn’t leave they didn’t really
speak English but parked their bike in front of me and asked the usual
questions “where you are from?” “Where you are going?” “What is your good
name?” all without understanding the answer or really caring. Every time I went
to drive off they would make random noises and in the end I sacked it in as
they threw me off my game
We drove back a different way (unintentionally as we missed
a turn but it worked out for the best since we missed the unpaved road section)
we came into Varanasi on the south bridge where we witnessed two altercations
with the same policemen on motorbikes the first was a car driving the wrong way
across the bridge the policeman immediately began waving his hitty stick at the
car and held up all the traffic and made him turn around (rightly so) the
second the policeman was actually clubbing a rickshaw driver over the head
(again he was driving the wrong way across the bridge)
We parked up at the Assi Ghat which is the furthest south
and found some food (including apple pie and ice-cream!!!) then had a little
wonder about before driving back to the old town. We parked up and Mark got a
Bhang Lassi and played Tetris for the rest of the night while I looked at
flights to Nepal.
Friday 27th February 2015
We mixed it up a bit this morning and headed out for
breakfast we wanted puri bhaji but were out of luck and had to settle for idly.
After eating we walked a bit before getting annoyed with all the traffic
We headed back to the guesthouse for some tea and a bit of a
chill out before setting out on an adventure to find spark plugs. It was
actually a pretty easy find and on the way back we stopped off at the train
station for me to get a ticket to Delhi. I tried tourist quota and there was
one ticket left but it was 2AC having never travelled anything other than
sleeper it better be worth the extra rupees (I could have waited in line and
got a tadkal (“emergency”) ticket but last time we did that in Jaipur it took
about six hours so I just paid the extra.
We took a drive through the Benasi Hindu university campus
(the travel man at our guesthouse tells me it’s the 3rd largest
university campus in the world but I’m not sure if that’s actually true or not)
the campus is pretty massive and a lot of the buildings are beautiful. Driving
through it seemed a bunch of the students had started celebrating Holi early as
there were tons of guys running around covered in coloured powder (the fact
that they were all screaming “Happy Holi” at us was another clue)
Since we were at the southern end of the river we decided to
park up and have some food. Drawn in by the apple pie from yesterday we went to
the same place and had massive thalis followed by apple pie.
When we came out of the restaurant we saw a man with a
monkey on a chain. The monkey was clearly miserable pacing in circles the
length of his chain and when he stopped pulling at it and at his collar the
whole scene was just wrong and was made worse by the fact that the man was
obviously using the monkey as a tool for begging.
The other thing we noticed when we came out was that the
bike was leaking petrol so after driving back to the guesthouse Mark set about
being all mechanic like and tried to fix it while I sat on my arse.
I managed to be somewhat productive and book a flight to Nepal
which took ages as my stupid credit card wanted me to use a stupid mobile
verification code but I don’t have a phone so that was a no go!
We had quite a late dinner at a somewhat average kind of
place then chilled for the rest of the evening.
Saturday 28th February 2015
As usual we were awakened by the sounds of a random Indian
man on the roof next door shouting at his pigeons it’s the most bizarre thing
he stands there waving a stick yelling what sounds like orders from a drill sergeant
followed by pigeon coos.
We headed up to the roof and had some breakfast as sat about
for a bit then I raced off to the post office to get some stamps before they
closed I got there just as they were shutting up shop but managed to wheedle my
way in and get my postcards sent.
Back at the guesthouse we decided enough time had passed and
we could go get lunch so we walked to the German bakery and sat up on the
rooftop eating bread and cake and then more cake.
We took a slow wandering walk back to the guesthouse and did
a whole load of not a lot and I packed my bags before eating again and then
heading to the station.
The drive there took an age it was only 3km but the traffic
was horrendous and we had to deal with several round abouts which in India are
pointless as no one gives way to their right everyone just plows onto the roundabout
and then no one can move. Near the station was a whole lot of road works and it
was so dark we couldn’t really see where to go so we parked up and walked the
rest of the way.
We said our goodbyes for now and I got on the train with
minutes to spare before it pulled off. It was my first time in any other class
than sleeper after getting the last tourist quota ticket I was in 2AC which has
ruined trains for me now! I’m not sure I can ever go back to sleeper! It was so
warm and clean and there were no rats or mice crawling on my feet. They gave me
two sheets two blankets and a pillow. The beds were wider. There were charging
points. The toilet was clean ANDTHEDRE WAS TOILET PAPER! Basically it was
luxury on wheels.
Not long into the journey a policeman came through and I had
to sign a document saying I had read his guidelines for not getting drugged on
the train, basically your common sense don’t take candy from strangers kind of
thing.
I passed the time reading my book and then listening to
tunes as I dozed and next thing you know it I was fast asleep.
Sunday 1st march 2015
I woke up this morning
after a pretty good sleep (it’s amazing how much better you can sleep on a
train when you are reasonably confident that no one is going to try and get
into bed with you in the night) and arrived into Delhi about an hour late. It was
pouring with rain and everyone was acting as if it was aid rather than just
water and pushing each other and trampling people down in an attempt to find
shelter. Getting off the platform and out of the station was difficult as
everyone was hiding from the rain on the stairs and in the over bridge making
moving through near impossible.
When I finally got out of the station I had the same problem
at the rickshaw stand over half the people crowded into the shelter didn’t even
want an auto they were just getting out of the rain meaning I kept getting
pushed further and further away from the counter by people not even in the
line! Eventually I used my bags to plow people out of the way and pushed my way
to the front, all the while the touts were also in the shelter constantly
asking me where I was going and trying to tell me I wouldn’t get a rickshaw
because of the rain but that they could take me. Why people feel the need to
out and out lie is beyond me.
Eventually I was in a rickshaw cruising through the near
empty Sunday morning streets of Delhi the driver was a bit of a nutter and every
time we had to go around a roundabout he drifted through the huge puddles which
was quite fun more than once we were on two wheels.
It took about 25mins to get to Haze and Johns (my auntie and
uncle) I arrived rather wet and muddy and dived straight into a hot shower and
then scoffed down some peanut better toast (PEANUT BUTTEER!!!!) before we
called mum on skype and chatted for almost three hours.
The afternoon was spent snacking and chatting and generally
lazing about before we got hungry and braved the rain to walk 50m down the road
and get some noodles for dinner. More lazing followed before I finally crashed
and went to bed.

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