Rockfalls and Earthquakes

Friday 24^th April 2015

This morning started out so well. We got up and had a lazy breakfast then packed up all of our things. We set off to Lumbini at 10.30am the sun was shining and the skies were blue.

There are two ways to get to Lumbini both of the roads are pretty good but one way takes about five hours the other seven or eight. The bit of info that we weren’t told that would have been useful is that along the shorter route the road is prone to landslides and rock falls.

The road was awesome it was winding and very hilly but the surface was smooth and it was a wide road. We had been going for about four hours and thought we had about an hour to go when the sky started getting really dark for about 30mins or so we had been chasing blue skies and sunlight but the clouds had finally caught up with us.

It began to rain, a bit of drizzle at first and then steadily heavier so we stopped to take shelter for a while along with all the other road users. After about ten minutes or so the rain eased off and we decided to make a break for it as everyone else was doing.

We hadn’t been driving long when we passed a sign saying ‘rock fall next 3km’ we didn’t think much of it and kept going we were rounding a corner when I noticed a few small rocks falling from above then next thing we knew huge boulders were crashing towards us.

All I had time to do was shout “oh fuck” as Mark was saying “what?” and looking up the rocks were suddenly falling all around us. Next thing we knew we were flat on the road. I saw Mark jump to his feet and it occurred to me that I should do the same. The bike was nowhere to be seen. Suddenly from behind us was a scream we turned around to see a girl running in the opposite direction the guy she was riding with was flat on his back not moving.

Rocks were still falling so we moved away to a grassy area where I had to sit down. We still couldn’t see the bike, my bag was down the cliff snagged on a tree and Marks had somehow come off the bike and landed on the road.

The guy still wasn’t moving but by this time people had arrived on the scene a few times small rock falls started again sending the helpers and rubber neckers running. By the time the police arrived what felt like an age later we were soaked through covered in blood and dirt, freezing cold and hurting. A local climbed down and retrieved my bag. Bystanders got us some water and ice for our bumps.

After filing a somewhat inept report the police commandeered a passing vehicle to take us to the hospital. We had to drive back through the rock fall area back the way we had come.

We arrived in the hospital where we were treated like celebratories crowds followed us into the emergency room and even after being treated it seemed people kept coming to look at us.

While we waited I went to the toilet. They say never eat in a restaurant where the toilet isn’t clean, I’m sure that applies to treatment in a hospital but I guess we didn’t have any choice.

We were lucky to come out of the crash with nothing more than some cuts and scrapes. The doctors cleaned us up and gave us tetanus shots (in the butt haha) then we had to sit and wait hours for the police to do their thing. They confirmed that the other man was dead but we already knew that as we had driven past his body still laying where he fell on the road on the way to the hospital.

The girl on his bike came and went in the time that we waited she was clearly in shock with a blank face. She looked as though she was even less injured than us.

Eventually we were discharged the hospital mixed up our medical reports so that each one has the wrong name but it doesn’t really matter too much. Our total hospital bill was about NZD $6 for the both of us!

Once the bill was paid and we had our medicines we left with the police to the station which was a short walk away. They had pulled the bike out of the river and it wasn’t actually as banged up as we thought it was going to be although of course it didn’t start after spending the afternoon submerged in a river. The headlight was torn away exposing all the electrics, the wheels were bent, the battery casing was gone, the clutch pedal and the pegs were mashed, there was a huge dent in the petrol tank, the luggage racks had been torn away and the seat was ripped and crooked.

The police said the bike would be safe until we picked it up but that was clearly not going to happen. As it can’t be sold in Nepal it will live out its day at the station until they scrap it for parts.

We left the station and went to the nearest guesthouse. There was no hot water and no power so we just ate then finally changed out of our wet clothes and went to bed. Although sleep was hard in coming after such a dramatic day and the huge storm that was raging outside. 

 As we were driving between Pokhara and Lumbini through a mountain pass we were hit by a rock slide. The bike was hit by a huge boulder and knocked out from under us clean off the road and into the river below. We were lucky to walk away with nothing more than cuts and bruises. Another man wasnt so lucky and died instantly when he was struck in the head by a falling rock.Where all the people are standing is where the rocks came down and where the body of the man who was killed lay. The bike ended up in the river but we couldnt even see it, the poilce later dragged it out.

Saturday 25^th April 2015

We couldn’t really sleep last night and so were up around 6am. It didn’t help that the rain was still falling heavily and that everyone in the building seemed to rise with the sun.

We went downstairs to get some breakfast it seemed the only thing on offer was veg noodles and tea so that’s what we had. Once we had eaten we asked one of the young guys who as hanging about if he would come with us to the police station to try and get an official police report for insurance.

He agreed and we headed across the road. It seemed the officers were still asleep except for two playing badminton who waited until their game was finished to help us. We occupied ourselves looking at the bike again and talking to the young guy who came with us.

Eventfully the police chief came out it turned out that if we wanted a report we had to go 9km to the area police station but after a few minutes of radio talk it came back to us that since we were so respectful and nice they were asking permission to write the report there although it would be in Nepalese.

Eventually they were granted permission and we waited while they completed the report hand written in triplicate. It took ages and we had to wait in a mosquito filled dark room. Eventually after posing for a million photos and shaking a million hands we were free to go with the report in hand.

We headed back to the guesthouse and packed up and paid the bill then set off for Lumbini. We were told the journey would take two hours with one change of bus but it actually took four hours with three changes.

The worst part was driving back past the accident sight the bus was rickety and old and just before we got on we were told that rock slide accidents on that road are very common and that sometimes entire busloads of people are wiped out by huge boulders. Not very reassuring.

The bus stopped often for long stretches of times and when It was moving the driver drove like a mad man meaning we were thrown about like wet rags at one point a local woman was thrown right off her seat onto the floor of the bus!

The first part of the journey was all through mountain passes and rock fall areas so we were both tense. Later we would learn that a huge 7.9 earthquake had struck Nepal moments after we left the mountains. We didn’t feel it but I think it was because our bus didn’t seem to have any suspension.

We stopped in a town of unknown name and the conductor told us we had to take a taxi the rest of the way this was backed up by the taxi drivers but seemed a bit fishy so we walked along the road asking the bus drivers (no fun feat when you are covered in bruises, your bag is soaking wet and your hand and arm keep bleeding everywhere) it didn’t take us long to find the bus going where we wanted to.

We rode that bus 22km to the next town where we changed a final time. It was only another 20km or so but it took a freaking age as the bus kept stopping. When we arrived in Lumbini we got down from the bus and walked along the main street looking for a guesthouse. As we were talking about which one to check out a Russian guy came over and told us about the place he was staying out it sounded cheap and cheerful so we checked it out and checked in.

We went looking for food and ate in some fly infested dive where the samosas where pretty good and the price was ridiculously low (plus there isn’t actually that much choice in this town)

After eating we went back to the guesthouse after letting everyone know we were ok in regards to the earthquake and telling them the news about the accident I had a shower and tried to clean up all my wounds. We were both knackered and sore and so spent the afternoon watching TV.

In the evening we went to find food. The mosquitos were out in force and for the first half of the meal there was no power meaning we were in the darkness. Thankfully it came on and the staff turned the fans on which stopped the mozzies.

We ate and chatted to some other girls about the earthquake they felt it pretty strong here in Lumbini. After eating all I wanted to do was lie down so after getting some chocolate we headed back and watched a movie.